Cooking
Stove and Burner Repair Around Tampa Bay
Burners that refuse to light, stay cold or get stuck on high bring most people here. Figure out what kind of stovetop you have first, since gas, coil, glass and induction each break in different places.
Booking online? The stove's model tag in the notes helps us line up the right part.
Tell us the appliance and your area, then how to reach you, and we'll follow up to arrange the visit.
Identify your stovetop first
A gas stove has grates and a visible flame. Most built in the last few decades use sealed burners lit by a spark electrode that clicks when you turn the knob; some older models still keep a small standing pilot burning to light the burners. Coil electric tops have spiral elements that plug into a socket. Smooth-top electrics hide radiant elements under ceramic glass, and induction tops look much the same but heat only pans a magnet will stick to.
On gas, most faults are spark or flame problems: a damp or greasy electrode, blocked burner ports, a cap sitting crooked, or a failed spark switch or module. Coil stoves fail at the element, its socket or the infinite switch behind the knob. Glass tops add limiters, relays and sometimes a board. Induction is mostly electronics.
Burner trouble rarely touches the oven underneath. If the oven is the problem, or the whole stove is acting up, the oven and range pages will help more.
- Gas, sealed burner
- Gas, standing pilot
- Electric coil
- Electric smooth-top
- Induction
- Dual-fuel
Stovetop symptoms and likely causes
Match your stove type to the symptom, then look at the likely causes.
- Gas burner sparks but won't catch
- Cap off-center, ports blocked by spills, electrode wet, greasy or cracked, weak spark
- Clicking won't stop on one burner
- Moisture or spilled food inside that knob's switch, the switch itself worn out, spark module
- Flame yellow, uneven or lifting
- Dirty ports, cap misaligned, wrong orifice for the gas type, debris in the burner
- Pilot-type burners won't light
- Pilot out, pilot or flash tube clogged, pilot flame set too low
- Coil element stays cold
- Element burned out, socket scorched or loose, infinite switch failed
- Element stuck on full heat
- Infinite switch or relay welded closed
- Glass-top burner dead or cutting in and out
- Element, limiter, switch, relay or control board
Safe things to check on the stovetop
- Gas: take off the cap and burner head and wash both. Open any blocked port with a straightened paper clip, let the parts dry fully, and seat the cap so it doesn't rock.
- Nonstop clicking after a boil-over or a wipe-down usually means moisture. Turn the stove off at the breaker and give it time to dry out completely.
- Coil: with the stove off and cool, move the dead element to a working socket that takes the same size. Glowing in its new spot means the old socket or its switch is the problem. Cold in both means the element needs replacing.
- Pull the coil element and look at its socket. Melted, blackened or loose terminals mean the socket needs replacing.
- Glass and induction: check for a control lock, and for induction, make sure a magnet clings firmly to the bottom of the pan.
Safety first: With any gas smell, leave the stove and light switches alone, get out, and call 911 or your gas utility from outside. Relight a standing pilot only if the stove's instructions explain how, and never with a gas odor present. Shut off the breaker before handling coil elements or sockets.
When a burner needs a technician
- A gas burner still won't catch once it's been cleaned, dried and reassembled.
- Clicking carries on after the stovetop has fully dried.
- A coil socket is burned, or an element won't turn down.
- A glass-top or induction zone is dead or behaves erratically.
- You smell gas with every knob off.
What a burner repair visit looks like
Most burner repairs are done from the top: raising the cooktop, then testing the switches, spark module, valves or element circuits. If a gas stove has to be pulled out, we turn off its gas first and check the connector once it's pushed back.
The diagnosis and the price come before anything is replaced. Landlords and property managers can hear the details by phone and approve the job remotely.
Fix the burner or replace the stove?
Burner repairs sit at the low end of appliance work: caps, electrodes, spark switches and modules, elements, sockets and infinite switches. A burner fault alone is seldom a reason to buy a new stove.
It's a closer decision when the glass top has cracked on an entry-level model, or when several faults pile up on an older one. We'll tell you plainly when that's where things stand.
Why Book Us for Stove Repair
Burners and oven tested on their own
Gas, coil and glass tops each fail in their own spots, and a burner fault rarely involves the oven, so each half gets its own tests.
Gas fittings leak-checked
Every gas connection we touch is tested for leaks before you cook on the stove again, and an aging connector gets pointed out.
Supply problems called out
A scorched outlet, a loose cord or an undersized gas line can mimic a stove fault. If the supply is the issue, we say so instead of swapping good parts.
See the cities and communities we serve around Tampa Bay, or book a stove repair visit.
Stove Service for Houses, Condos and Rentals
Plenty of Tampa homes are all-electric, so coil and smooth-top stoves are everywhere, from ranch houses in Town 'n' Country to rentals near USF. Gas stoves turn up where a Peoples Gas line reaches the street, in some older bungalows in Seminole Heights and Tampa Heights, and in remodeled kitchens. For landlords and households moving on military orders, fixing one burner is normally faster to schedule than shopping for, delivering and hooking up a new stove.
How a Stove Repair Visit Works
Book the Visit
The model tag (often behind the drawer or on the frame) and what it does or doesn't do when you turn it on.
Find the Fault
The technician checks heat sources, sensors and switches, and confirms the power or gas reaching the unit.
Your Go-Ahead
We show you the failed part and give a price for the fix; the work waits for your yes.
Fixed and Verified
After the repair we test a full cycle and check for leaks, noise or codes before we leave.
You Might Also Need
Nearby areas, related brands and other equipment we service.
Stove faults we repair
All the stove faults we track down, covering burners, igniters, elements, switches and controls.
- Not Igniting
- Burner Not Heating
- Gas Odor from Stove
- Uneven Heating
- Gas Burner Not Lighting
- Oven Section Not Heating
- Surface Element Not Heating
- Clock / Timer Not Working
- Control Panel Not Responding
- Oven Temperature Inaccurate
- Broiler Not Working
- Self-Clean Not Working
- Storage or Warming Drawer Not Working
- Stove Not Level
- Anti-Tip Bracket Not Installed
- Oven Door Problem
- Stove Moving When Using Oven Door
- Power Cord or Terminal Block Issue
- Burner Weak on One Side of Grate
- Oven Baking Lopsided
- Burner Indicator Light Stuck On
- Wrong Burner Igniting
- Yellow Flame on One Burner Only
- Oven Takes Long Time to Ignite
- Burner Cap Misaligned After Cleaning
- Broil Element Incorrect Position
- Gas Regulator on Stove Failing
- Pilot Light Out (Older Standing Pilot Stove)
- Thermocouple Failure
- No Power for Electronic Ignition
- Stove Top Porcelain Discolored
- Oven Temperature Knob Not Controlling Oven
- Burning Smell from Storage Drawer
- Burner Cap Cracked or Damaged
- Stove Top Surface Chipped or Cracked
- Broil Drawer Issue
- Gas Stove Will Not Self-Ignite at All
- Oven Not Responding to Controls
- Low Gas Pressure Affecting Stove Performance
Stove brands we work on
Notes on the stove brands we're called about most, then every brand we service. See every brand we work on.
- GE Appliances stove repair
- Whirlpool stove repair
- Frigidaire stove repair
- Samsung stove repair
- LG stove repair
- Maytag stove repair
- Amana stove repair
- Kenmore stove repair
Stove guides from our blog
Stove Repair FAQ
A few plain answers before you book. Details about your home or the appliance can go in the form's notes field.
Didn't see your question?
Send us the make, the model tag and what the appliance is doing. Some problems can be narrowed down before anyone drives over; most need hands on the machine.
In everyday use, nothing: both mean one appliance with burners on top and an oven below. On this site the stove page deals with burners and elements, while the range page covers whole-unit problems, installation and specialty models.
Since the other burners light, gas is reaching the stove. The problem is that burner: a cap sitting off-center, blocked ports, or a damp or dirty electrode. Wash and dry those parts. A burner that still won't catch afterward usually has a failed spark switch, electrode or valve.
Plug it into a working socket that takes the same size. Heat there means the fault is in the original socket or its infinite switch. No heat means the element is finished. Either way, check the old socket for scorching.
Yes. Some older homes and rentals still have standing-pilot stoves. Typical repairs are clearing pilot and flash tubes, adjusting the pilot and replacing a thermocouple where the stove has one. With any smell of gas, leave the house and phone the gas company first.
Yes. Owners and property managers can book and approve the repair without being there. Just tell us who will let the technician in.