An ice maker does a simple job in a series of steps. Water comes from the house supply, through a valve, past a filter, up a small tube and into a mold. The freezer freezes it. A heater or twist mechanism releases the cubes, and a sensor decides whether the bin needs more. When any step breaks, the ice stops.
Working through that chain from start to finish is the fastest way to find the fault. This guide covers refrigerator ice makers; standalone undercounter ice machines work on a different principle.
Before you start
Unplug the refrigerator or switch off its breaker before removing any panel or disconnecting the water line. If you need to disconnect the supply, close the shutoff valve first; it's usually under the kitchen sink or in a recessed box in the wall behind the refrigerator.
Step one: is the ice maker switched on?
It sounds obvious, but it accounts for a lot of calls.
- •Shutoff arm. Many ice makers have a wire arm that rises when the bin is full. If it's been bumped into the up position, production stops.
- •On/off switch. Some have a switch on the ice maker body.
- •Control panel. Many newer refrigerators turn the ice maker on and off from the front display. A child or a cleaning wipe can turn it off without anyone noticing.
- •Sensor blocked. Models with an optical sensor stop if frost, food or a stuck cube covers it.
Step two: is the freezer cold enough?
An ice maker usually won't cycle until its mold reaches a cold enough temperature. If the freezer is running warm, ice slows or stops even though the ice maker itself is fine.
Put a thermometer in the freezer. If it reads much above 0°F, the ice maker isn't your main problem. Our freezer guide covers what to check. A freezer in a hot garage, a dirty condenser and frost on the evaporator all show up as slow ice before they show up as soft food.
Step three: is water reaching the valve?
Follow the supply line from the shutoff valve to the back of the refrigerator.
- •Make sure the shutoff valve is fully open.
- •Look for kinks, especially if the refrigerator was recently moved.
- •Older installations sometimes use a self-piercing saddle valve clamped onto a copper pipe. These clog and leak over time; replacing one with a proper shutoff valve is a good idea.
If you have a reverse osmosis system under the sink feeding the refrigerator, know that RO systems can deliver lower pressure than the house supply. The ice maker's inlet valve needs enough pressure to open fully and fill the mold in the time allowed.
Step four: the water filter
A clogged filter slows the flow and can starve the ice maker. It's one of the most common reasons for small cubes.
- •Check the date you last changed the filter. Most manufacturers suggest about every six months, but follow your model's guidance.
- •If you're unsure, replace it.
- •After installing a new filter, run water through the dispenser for the time the manual recommends to clear air and carbon fines.
Tampa's water is hard. Minerals collect in the filter, the valve's inlet screen and the small passages of the ice maker over time. If you buy a filter, get one matched to your refrigerator's model number.
Step five: the inlet valve
The inlet valve is an electric solenoid valve at the back of the refrigerator, near the bottom. It opens for a few seconds each time the ice maker calls for water. Valves fail in two ways: they stop opening, or they stop closing completely.
- •Stuck closed or partly clogged: no ice, or small hollow cubes.
- •Leaking through: water drips into the mold continuously, freezes into a solid block or overflows into the bin, and ice cubes fuse together.
A mesh screen at the valve's inlet catches sediment. A technician can check the screen and test the valve electrically. Valve work involves both water and line voltage, so it's best left to someone with the right meter.
Step six: the fill tube
The fill tube runs from the valve through the back wall of the freezer to the ice maker. If the freezer is very cold, or the valve leaks slowly, water can freeze inside the tube and block it.
Signs: the ice maker cycles (you hear it) but no water arrives, and you can see ice at the tube outlet above the mold.
To thaw it, unplug the refrigerator and use a hair dryer on low, held at a safe distance, around the tube where it enters the freezer. Don't use a heat gun or an open flame, and keep the dryer away from water. If the tube freezes again within days, the valve may be leaking through or the freezer may be set too cold.
Step seven: the ice maker itself
If water arrives and the freezer is cold but cubes never release, the ice maker's motor, heater or control may have failed. Many ice makers are replaced as an assembly rather than repaired part by part.
Ice that tastes or smells bad
That's usually not a mechanical fault. Old ice absorbs odors from the freezer. Empty the bin, wash it, discard the first batches after cleaning, and keep food sealed. If the water from the dispenser also tastes off, replace the filter.
New refrigerator, no ice
A newly installed refrigerator can take a day or longer before the first ice drops. Throw away the first few batches, which may contain air and fine filter particles. If there's still nothing after the time listed in the manual, work through the steps above, starting with the supply valve.
Common questions
My ice cubes are small and hollow. Why?
Not enough water reaching the mold. A clogged filter, low pressure, a kinked line or a partly blocked inlet valve screen are the usual causes.
The ice in the door dispenser freezes into a block. What causes that?
Warm, humid air getting in, or ice sitting unused. Make sure the door seals well and that the dispenser flap closes. Use the ice regularly or empty the bin.
Booking a visit
If you've worked through the chain and the ice still doesn't come, call or book online. Have the refrigerator's model number ready; it's usually on a label inside the fresh-food section. More detail is on our ice maker repair page.